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January 13, 2014

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Leigh

I can't remember where it was, but I recall a machine shop that put on a class where the students were shown how to machine 80% lowers. The shop didn't do the work for them, it was purely instructional. Then the students were cut loose in the shop to finish their projects. It was deemed legal, because the shop wasn't making the part for them, they were simply providing the tools. So, if you can find a friend to let you use his equipment - as long as they don't do any work on the part themselves, you should be good.

Good luck with your project.

Leigh
Whitehall, NY

john jay

leigh:

thanks.

i have come across sufficient concern from people that drilling the holes for me would be "manufacture," that i have simply determined to get a new and/or used grizzly drill press/mill.

it's just easier that way.

it's gonna take 3 or 4 months to put "the scratch" together, and i'll have to sell some stuff, ... , but, that's just the "cleanest" way to do it.

i wouldn't want the boys at a.t.& f. getting dyspeptic over the whole damned thing, now, would i?

thanks for the read, and thanks for the note. it is much appreciated.

john jay

p.s. so, for now, the receiver remains __%, and "holeless." laughing.

Leigh

John

It might be worth your while to find a used Bridgeport. We picked ours up for 1500 from a used machine dealer, then put a cheap drive on the table and rebuilt the 2J head. I keep hoping they deem it surplus to requirement and put it up for bid someday!
The place I worked at before bought a M/D unit for the maintenance guys - so we would stop using the machinists' mills. What a piece of crap! It wasn't square or parallel, had tons of slop and backlash - and it was NEW! That thing came from Enco, so I really don't know if the Grizzly is any better.
Just a thought. Look forward to you finalizing your laminate receiver.

Leigh
Whitehall, NY

rightwingterrorist

All stop.
Stand-by.
Hurry up and wait.

john jay

right wing:

yes. precisely. *sigh*

john jay

p.s. i do have some improvements in mind, and i can work on the receiver extension/buffer tube nut in the meantime.

but, what you've said, ... , essentially, yes.

john jay

leigh:

i will look around. occasionally the state of oregon surpluses stuff out, but i don't see them giving up any bridgeport lathes/mills any time soon.

for now, it's a mill/drill when i can pony up the loot, and i'll just have to live w/ the prospects of the perils you've mentioned.

i've been reading reviews of grizzly mill/drill/lathe units, and they are replete w/ the horrors of wiring gone awry, and of safety switches in hidden places, but, they seem to work when they work.

but, gremlins seem to live in their innards, as far as the electrics.

we'll see.

john jay

Leigh

http://www.surplusrecord.com/general.htm

This is who we regularly search for used machines. If for nothing else, you could always check on ebay or craigslist.....

Leigh
Whitehall, NY

Mt Top Patriot

Mr Jay there is a method you could use. If you have a stripped lower it is a ready drill jig that supplies alignment and location for you to drill the pivot, trigger, sear, and safety pin holes. You will have to align your composite and standard lowers side by side. Use spacers in appropriate places between the two, get the upper mating surfaces parallel and square, clamp everything snug. Take the drills you will use, wrap tape on the points, and use 400 grit silicone carbide sand paper wrapped around a file or a piece of yard stick to break the lead, the cutting edge up the length of the drill. The tape on the point only needs to cover at max .125" of length. This is to retain enough cutting edge at the point to drill your blank lower, and keep from making your template lower pin holes larger. Just go slow and use enough pressure to get the drill bit cutting and fully sunk into what it's cutting. The idea is to cut without walking until it is seated into the hole your drilling. Don't spare the cutting fluid either.

Sounds crude but it works if one is patient. There are a lot of nuances here, but your a smart fellow, you will recognize them as you proceed.

Here is another trick for your buffer tube hole/thread. Go to ACE stocks, order a "Pig Nose Adapter" from them. It is steel cup that has the buffer tube threads on the ID, and a couple of screw slots on the bottom of the cup. Remove the cup bottom and you got yourself a dandy threaded sleeve you can fasten to your lower in a few different ways.

john jay

leigh:

thanks for the link.

john

john jay

mountain top:

i am gonna read this a couple times more, and "digest" it a little bit, and think about it a little bit.

back in a day or so.

john

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